A Day in the Test Kitchen

​ Exploring Arizona's Indigenous Culinary Heritage: A Day in the Test Kitchen
By Jeffrey Lazos Ferns
 
I spent the afternoon in a test kitchen with Belin Denella, Appolon Lewis, and Angelica Y. Martinez, sampling and testing menu items for the Condé Nast event in September. I always know when a dish is a hit, it sends me into sensory overdrive. Lamb, rabbit, trout, elk, duck, mesquite, cholla cactus, corn in many reincarnations, prickly pear, chia seeds, amaranth, chiltepin, and desert hare were just a few of the Indigenous Arizona flavors we are testing. I am confident the final menu will represent the rich tapestry of our culinary heritage.
 
Nella and Mark are excellent chefs, working seamlessly together. I especially enjoy writing about the experience during the experimentation, building the narrative around the event, and exploring the ingredients' edible, medicinal, geographical, and cultural origins. Given our rich indigenous foodways here in Arizona and being tasked with representing Northern, Central, and Southern foodways, this is no easy task. Yet, I believe we are onto something special with this menu. Below are a few of the ingredients we are testing that are indigenous to Arizona.
 
 Edible, Medicinal, Geographical, and Cultural Origins of Ingredients
 
Desert Hare 
The desert hare, or jackrabbit, is a vital part of the ecosystem and has been a traditional food source for many Indigenous tribes in Arizona. Its lean meat is valued for its flavor and nutritional content. Hunting and preparing desert hares involves traditional knowledge and techniques passed down through generations, emphasizing the deep connection to the land and wildlife.
 
Lamb and Rabbit 
While not traditionally Indigenous, these meats have been integrated into modern Native cuisine. Raised in ways that respect the environment and the animals, lamb and rabbit represent a bridge between past and present, showing how Indigenous foodways adapt and evolve.
 
 
Trout and Elk 
Trout and elk have been vital to the diets of Arizona's Indigenous peoples. The cold, clear waters of Northern Arizona's streams and rivers provide ideal habitats for trout, a staple for tribes like the Hualapai and Hopi. Elk, abundant in the forests and grasslands, have long been hunted for their meat, hides, and antlers, providing sustenance and materials for tools and clothing.
 
Duck 
Duck hunting has historical significance for tribes in Arizona's wetlands and river valleys. Ducks are a food source and feature in various cultural practices and ceremonies, emphasizing the deep connection between the people and their natural surroundings.
 
Mesquite 
Mesquite trees throughout Arizona are more than just hardy desert flora. Indigenous peoples have long used mesquite pods as a food source, grinding them into flour for bread and cakes. The tree also holds medicinal value, used to treat ailments such as sore throats and digestive issues.
 
Cholla Cactus 
With its bright blossoms and spiny branches, the cholla cactus has provided food and medicine. When harvested and prepared correctly, the buds offer a nutritious addition to the diet. Medicinally, cholla has been used to treat wounds and other health concerns.
 
Corn
Corn, or maize, is central to many Indigenous cultures in Arizona. It is used in various forms: roasted, ground into flour, or made into hominy. Corn also holds cultural significance in ceremonies and storytelling, symbolizing life and growth.
 
Prickly Pear
With its vibrant fruit, the prickly pear cactus is another cornerstone of Indigenous cuisine. The pads and fruit are edible and have medicinal properties, such as treating wounds and digestive issues. The prickly pear also represents resilience and adaptation, thriving in the harsh desert environment.
 
Chia Seeds and Amaranth
Chia seeds and amaranth are ancient grains cultivated by tribes such as the Pima and Tohono O’odham. They are nutritional powerhouses rich in protein, fiber, and essential fatty acids. These grains are also tied to cultural practices, symbolizing strength and endurance.
 
Chiltepin 
Chiltepin, a wild chili pepper native to the Southwest, packs a punch in flavor and cultural significance. It is used in traditional dishes for its heat and medicinally for its pain-relieving properties. It is important to note that the chiltepin is native to the US-Mexico borderlands and has a long history of use in this region. They are considered the “mother of all peppers” as they are the only wild chile native to the United States. The Chiltepin's importance in these cultures is reflected in its continued use over thousands of years and in efforts to preserve its cultivation and wild harvesting traditions.
Inspired by rich traditions, our menu honors the deep connections between food, culture, and the land. Each ingredient tells a story of survival, adaptation, and respect for nature.
 
Food is Medicine: A Pre-Colonial Concept
 
The concept of "food is medicine" is deeply rooted in the traditions and practices of the Indigenous peoples of Arizona, long before the advent of modern medicine and colonial influence. In pre-colonial times, food was not merely a means of sustenance but was intertwined with health, spirituality, and community well-being.
 
Holistic Health Practices 
Indigenous cultures viewed health holistically, understanding that physical, mental, and spiritual well-being were interconnected. Food played a crucial role in maintaining this balance. Ingredients were chosen not only for their nutritional value but also for their healing properties. For instance, mesquite pods were ground into flour to create nutrient-rich foods that provided sustained energy and stabilized blood sugar levels, acting as a preventative measure against illness.
 
Medicinal Properties of Plants 
Plants such as the cholla cactus, prickly pear, and amaranth were integral to Indigenous diets, valued for their medicinal benefits. Cholla buds were known to aid digestion and reduce inflammation, while prickly pear pads and fruit were used to treat wounds and gastrointestinal issues. Amaranth, rich in protein and amino acids, supported muscle health and provided essential nutrients for overall well-being.
 
Cultural and Spiritual Significance 
The cultivation, harvesting, and preparation of food were imbued with cultural and spiritual significance. Corn, for example, was seen as a sacred gift from the gods, symbolizing life and growth. Ceremonial practices often included offerings of food to the spirits, seeking blessings for health and prosperity. This deep respect for food reinforced the idea that what we consume directly impacts our health and the harmony of our community.
 
Sustainable and Ethical Practices 
Indigenous foodways emphasized sustainability and ethical practices. Hunting and gathering were conducted with respect for the environment, ensuring that resources were not depleted. This sustainable approach ensured a continuous supply of nutritious food, supporting long-term health. Using every part of an animal or plant also minimizes waste and maximizes the nutritional and medicinal benefits derived from each source.
 
Community and Knowledge Sharing
Knowledge about the healing properties of food was shared within communities and passed down through generations. Elders played a crucial role in educating younger members about the preparation and uses of various ingredients, ensuring that this wisdom continued to benefit future generations. This communal approach to health fostered a strong sense of community and collective responsibility for each other's well-being.
 
Incorporating these traditional perspectives into our menu for the Condé Nast event allows us to honor and celebrate the profound wisdom of Arizona's Indigenous peoples. By understanding and embracing the concept of food as medicine, we can create dishes that nourish both body and soul, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of our region.
 
We are hosting a pre-NYC tasting at the Great Arizona Puppet Theater in August. Check out the theater’s website for information if you are interested in attending. In addition to the menu, we will also include an Indigenous Teas of Arizona tasting.

https://www.azpuppets.org/
 
❤️❤️❤️ 
#foodismedicine 
#storytellingthroughfood 
#indigenous

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