Flavors of Arizona: A Celebration of Community, Culture, and Cuisine
by Jeffrey Lazos Ferns This past weekend, we successfully hosted Flavors of Arizona: A Journey Through Native Culinary Heritage at the Great Arizona Puppet Theater. The experience, unique in its celebration of our collective efforts and dedication, was a profound testament to the Arizona Indigenous Culinary Experience. As the producer and founder of this exceptional culinary journey, witnessing our vision come to life in such a meaningful way was a source of immense pride and accomplishment. The Great Arizona Puppet Theater, with its rich history of entertaining audiences for 40 years, was the perfect setting for our event. Its intimate and inviting ambiance added an extra layer of charm and warmth to our celebration. Just as the theater has been a place of wonder and joy for decades, it provided a backdrop that perfectly complemented the spirit of the night, delighting attendees with its character and history. The evening was more than just a showcase of Native Arizona’s rich culinary traditions—it was a powerful gathering of our community, coming together to honor and celebrate the flavors that have been a part of our land for centuries. Walking through the event, I was deeply moved by the unity and connection that filled the space, a beautiful reminder of why I started this journey: to create a space where we can share our stories, our food, and our culture with one another, and to foster a sense of belonging and togetherness. The dishes presented were a true testament to the creativity and resilience of our Native chefs and culinary artists. Each plate was not just food but a narrative—a reflection of the land, the people, and the heritage that make Arizona’s culinary landscape so unique. From the smoky richness of mesquite-grilled meats to the subtle sweetness of traditional desert fruits, the flavors told stories of tradition, adaptation, and pride. What touched me most, though, was the incredible sense of community. It was heartening to see people from all backgrounds come together to celebrate Native culinary traditions. The joy in the room was palpable as old friends reconnected and new friendships were forged over shared meals. This event wasn’t just about food but building bridges and creating a space where everyone felt welcomed and valued. The performances by Native Art Market artists added an extra layer of depth to the evening. Arts and culture are the heartbeat of any thriving community and seeing them so beautifully integrated into our event reminded us of their vital role in our lives. They are not just entertainment but expressions of who we are and what we stand for. They are the threads that weave us together, reminding us of our shared histories and collective potential. Flavors of Arizona was a night that affirmed everything I believe in, including the importance of honoring our roots, the power of community, and the role of arts and culture in creating a more inclusive and vibrant future. I’m deeply grateful to everyone who came out to support this event. Your presence and contributions were invaluable, and I want to express my heartfelt thanks. I look forward to continuing this journey with all of you. Together, we can keep celebrating the rich culinary heritage of Native Arizona, ensuring that these traditions continue to thrive for generations to come.
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Exploring Arizona's Indigenous Culinary Heritage: A Day in the Test Kitchen By Jeffrey Lazos Ferns I spent the afternoon in a test kitchen with Belin Denella, Appolon Lewis, and Angelica Y. Martinez, sampling and testing menu items for the Condé Nast event in September. I always know when a dish is a hit, it sends me into sensory overdrive. Lamb, rabbit, trout, elk, duck, mesquite, cholla cactus, corn in many reincarnations, prickly pear, chia seeds, amaranth, chiltepin, and desert hare were just a few of the Indigenous Arizona flavors we are testing. I am confident the final menu will represent the rich tapestry of our culinary heritage. Nella and Mark are excellent chefs, working seamlessly together. I especially enjoy writing about the experience during the experimentation, building the narrative around the event, and exploring the ingredients' edible, medicinal, geographical, and cultural origins. Given our rich indigenous foodways here in Arizona and being tasked with representing Northern, Central, and Southern foodways, this is no easy task. Yet, I believe we are onto something special with this menu. Below are a few of the ingredients we are testing that are indigenous to Arizona. Edible, Medicinal, Geographical, and Cultural Origins of Ingredients Desert Hare The desert hare, or jackrabbit, is a vital part of the ecosystem and has been a traditional food source for many Indigenous tribes in Arizona. Its lean meat is valued for its flavor and nutritional content. Hunting and preparing desert hares involves traditional knowledge and techniques passed down through generations, emphasizing the deep connection to the land and wildlife. Lamb and Rabbit While not traditionally Indigenous, these meats have been integrated into modern Native cuisine. Raised in ways that respect the environment and the animals, lamb and rabbit represent a bridge between past and present, showing how Indigenous foodways adapt and evolve. Trout and Elk Trout and elk have been vital to the diets of Arizona's Indigenous peoples. The cold, clear waters of Northern Arizona's streams and rivers provide ideal habitats for trout, a staple for tribes like the Hualapai and Hopi. Elk, abundant in the forests and grasslands, have long been hunted for their meat, hides, and antlers, providing sustenance and materials for tools and clothing. Duck Duck hunting has historical significance for tribes in Arizona's wetlands and river valleys. Ducks are a food source and feature in various cultural practices and ceremonies, emphasizing the deep connection between the people and their natural surroundings. Mesquite Mesquite trees throughout Arizona are more than just hardy desert flora. Indigenous peoples have long used mesquite pods as a food source, grinding them into flour for bread and cakes. The tree also holds medicinal value, used to treat ailments such as sore throats and digestive issues. Cholla Cactus With its bright blossoms and spiny branches, the cholla cactus has provided food and medicine. When harvested and prepared correctly, the buds offer a nutritious addition to the diet. Medicinally, cholla has been used to treat wounds and other health concerns. Corn Corn, or maize, is central to many Indigenous cultures in Arizona. It is used in various forms: roasted, ground into flour, or made into hominy. Corn also holds cultural significance in ceremonies and storytelling, symbolizing life and growth. Prickly Pear With its vibrant fruit, the prickly pear cactus is another cornerstone of Indigenous cuisine. The pads and fruit are edible and have medicinal properties, such as treating wounds and digestive issues. The prickly pear also represents resilience and adaptation, thriving in the harsh desert environment. Chia Seeds and Amaranth Chia seeds and amaranth are ancient grains cultivated by tribes such as the Pima and Tohono O’odham. They are nutritional powerhouses rich in protein, fiber, and essential fatty acids. These grains are also tied to cultural practices, symbolizing strength and endurance. Chiltepin Chiltepin, a wild chili pepper native to the Southwest, packs a punch in flavor and cultural significance. It is used in traditional dishes for its heat and medicinally for its pain-relieving properties. It is important to note that the chiltepin is native to the US-Mexico borderlands and has a long history of use in this region. They are considered the “mother of all peppers” as they are the only wild chile native to the United States. The Chiltepin's importance in these cultures is reflected in its continued use over thousands of years and in efforts to preserve its cultivation and wild harvesting traditions. Inspired by rich traditions, our menu honors the deep connections between food, culture, and the land. Each ingredient tells a story of survival, adaptation, and respect for nature. Food is Medicine: A Pre-Colonial Concept The concept of "food is medicine" is deeply rooted in the traditions and practices of the Indigenous peoples of Arizona, long before the advent of modern medicine and colonial influence. In pre-colonial times, food was not merely a means of sustenance but was intertwined with health, spirituality, and community well-being. Holistic Health Practices Indigenous cultures viewed health holistically, understanding that physical, mental, and spiritual well-being were interconnected. Food played a crucial role in maintaining this balance. Ingredients were chosen not only for their nutritional value but also for their healing properties. For instance, mesquite pods were ground into flour to create nutrient-rich foods that provided sustained energy and stabilized blood sugar levels, acting as a preventative measure against illness. Medicinal Properties of Plants Plants such as the cholla cactus, prickly pear, and amaranth were integral to Indigenous diets, valued for their medicinal benefits. Cholla buds were known to aid digestion and reduce inflammation, while prickly pear pads and fruit were used to treat wounds and gastrointestinal issues. Amaranth, rich in protein and amino acids, supported muscle health and provided essential nutrients for overall well-being. Cultural and Spiritual Significance The cultivation, harvesting, and preparation of food were imbued with cultural and spiritual significance. Corn, for example, was seen as a sacred gift from the gods, symbolizing life and growth. Ceremonial practices often included offerings of food to the spirits, seeking blessings for health and prosperity. This deep respect for food reinforced the idea that what we consume directly impacts our health and the harmony of our community. Sustainable and Ethical Practices Indigenous foodways emphasized sustainability and ethical practices. Hunting and gathering were conducted with respect for the environment, ensuring that resources were not depleted. This sustainable approach ensured a continuous supply of nutritious food, supporting long-term health. Using every part of an animal or plant also minimizes waste and maximizes the nutritional and medicinal benefits derived from each source. Community and Knowledge Sharing Knowledge about the healing properties of food was shared within communities and passed down through generations. Elders played a crucial role in educating younger members about the preparation and uses of various ingredients, ensuring that this wisdom continued to benefit future generations. This communal approach to health fostered a strong sense of community and collective responsibility for each other's well-being. Incorporating these traditional perspectives into our menu for the Condé Nast event allows us to honor and celebrate the profound wisdom of Arizona's Indigenous peoples. By understanding and embracing the concept of food as medicine, we can create dishes that nourish both body and soul, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of our region. We are hosting a pre-NYC tasting at the Great Arizona Puppet Theater in August. Check out the theater’s website for information if you are interested in attending. In addition to the menu, we will also include an Indigenous Teas of Arizona tasting. https://www.azpuppets.org/ ❤️❤️❤️ #foodismedicine #storytellingthroughfood #indigenous San Xavier Coop by Jeffrey Lazos Ferns My recent visit to Tucson, Arizona, included a meeting and journey into the unique beauty of the desert and the warmth of the Tohono O'odham community. My colleague Donna Warren and I met with San Xavier Co-op, inviting the farm to participate in the Arizona Indigenous Food Symposium. After the meeting, as I stood observing the lush fields of Alfalfa on the San Xavier Co-op Farm, memories of my childhood flooded back. I remembered how my mother would make pilgrimages to the nearby San Xavier Mission, her face serene as she lit candles in prayer to her patron saints. Those visits always felt sacred, a connection to something greater than ourselves. As I grew older, I continued visiting the mission, drawn by its beauty and sense of peace. But I never knew the whole story of the land around it. I had no idea about the incredible work at the co-op farm, which was just a stone's throw away. This visit to the San Xavier Co-op has been a revelation. Learning about their commitment to preserving traditional Tohono O'odham farming practices and crops has deepened my appreciation for this community in ways I never expected. I now understand that the sacred nature of this place extends far beyond the mission walls into the very soil that has sustained the O'odham people for millennia. Seeing the alfalfa springing to life with the monsoon rains, and hearing about the massive ha:l squash that can grow up to 20 pounds, I felt a newfound respect for the agricultural wisdom passed down through generations. The co-op's dedication to sustainable farming practices, avoiding synthetic chemicals, and respecting the land resonates deeply with the values my mother instilled in me throughout my life. I'm struck by how the co-op is a living bridge between past and present. It's not just preserving traditions; it's adapting them to meet current challenges and ensure a sustainable future. The farm's role in reclaiming water rights and revitalizing the Santa Cruz River for future generations is just one of many remarkable facets of this farm. This visit has transformed my connection to San Xavier. What was once simply a place of childhood memory and spiritual comfort has become a symbol of resilience, cultural preservation, and community strength. The co-op's work in education, partnering with local schools and food banks, and providing a space for elders to pass on traditional knowledge shows a commitment to the future that's genuinely inspiring. As I prepare to leave, looking back at the mission from the San Xavier Co-op Farm, I know that my return is now to visit the historic mission and experience, tour, and, yes, even work in the fertile fields surrounding it. It's a powerful reminder that our connections to place and community can grow more profound and more meaningful over time if we take the time to learn and understand. To learn more about the San Xavier Coop visit their website at https://www.sanxaviercoop.org/ A Journey to Sells, Arizona: Embracing Desert Beauty and Cultural Richness
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